¿Cómo ajustar el Truss Rod en una Fender stratocaster?

TRUSS ROD
There are two different styles of truss rod found on Fender instruments—"standard" and "bi-flex" truss rods.

Most Fender guitars and basses are equipped with a standard truss rod (of which there are in turn two types: one that adjusts at the neck heel and one that adjusts at the headstock; both operate on the same principle). The standard truss rod can counteract concave curvature in a neck that has too much relief, for example, by generating a force in the neck opposite to that caused by excessive string tension.

Fender also uses a unique bi-flex truss rod system on some instruments. Unlike standard truss rods, which can only correct a neck that is too concave (under-bowed), the bi-flex truss rod can compensate concave or convex (over-bowed) curvature by generating a correcting force in either direction as needed.

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

Adjustment at headstock (allen wrench): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Adjustment at neck joint (phillips screwdriver): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance when adjusting the truss rod, if your instrument needs constant adjustment, if adjusting the truss rod has no effect on the neck, or if you're simply not comfortable making this type of adjustment yourself, take your instrument to your local Fender Authorized Dealer.

Neck Radius
7.25" - .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" - .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" - .008" (0.2 mm)

El sucio secreto de la pintura de fender

Fenders Dirty Little Secret - The Plastic Coating of Guitars since 1963

Fact:
All Fender Guitars made since 1963 are Polyester coated. Lacquer is put on top of the poly to satisfy the general publics belief that Nitro Cellulose (nitro) Lacquer finished guitars "breathe", "dry" and generally have become the bottom line for creating great tome. I'm talking USA, Vintage collectable instruments that the general public has bought, traded, and sold for over 50 years. They came from the Fender factor with a hard plastic jacket underneath it. A suffocating wolf, masquerading under a cloak of Lacquer Fender later switched to 100% Poly and UltraViolet cured Resin on Squire, Mexican, Japanese, some USA and all other imports till this day.

Fact:
The two-part catalyzed coating named "Fullerplast" (Fuller for Fuller O'Brien, the products creator, and plast for the obvious PLASTIC"), solved all of Fenders finishing problems; encasing the deep wood pores in a self-hardening plastic that wrapped the body in a rock-hard solid coffin. In some cases we have found it to be as thick as a.060 string. Yes, all of the wood moisture and characteristics are sealed in a virtual time-capsule, only to be vented from the body through screw holes and paint fractures. Share this info and be the hit of your next guitar gathering!

Fact:
Fender rarely mentions Fullerplast, or the way it prepares its bodies before applying Lacquer. If they mention it at all
So, when someone tells you that a Fender "nitro-cellulose" or "nitro" finished guitar will sound better, have more warmth, or will dry out... they really don't have the full story.

Ask any seasoned guitar craftsman what happens when you will apply paint stripper to a Fender "nitro" finish.

The nitro color comes off within minutes, leaving the guitar with a rock-hard plastic coating that can not be removed with any chemical means. Sandpaper barely scratches this coating, but will remove it with mechanical help. Heat Guns will remove the coating, but not by softening it. Apply heat to the Fullerplast coating and it will remain solid until about 300F, at which time it will crack, and pop off of the guitar.

It's a fact, , its scientific, and it's the skeleton in Fenders closet, that they never want to be seen. They have kept it locked away like a bastard child, allowing players, collectors, and experts to spread the "nitro" legend as the holy-grail of tone!

When did Fender start the plastic coating process, and why?

Most experts agree that Fullerplast was started to be used by Fender in 1963
There are many experts that are willing to share the facts with the guitar community, just as I am.

The most time consuming part of finishing a solid guitar body, is the process of filling the wood pores, and allowing the paint to lay flay, with a gloss found on Grand Pianos, or automobiles. Fender needed a fast and easy solution in order speed up production during the guitar craze of the early 1960s. Encasing the wood in a smooth, hard, "glass" jacket would eliminate up to 20 hours in each body prep. Fender even experimented with a hot dip that resembled a candy apple method. The problem was that the dip mixture would need to be at a temperature that would damage the wood, or cause body moisture to create "steam pops" in the coating

When Fender switched to Alder (from Ash) as it's primary body wood in mid 1956, many books and authorities state Fender started using the product called "Fullerplast" This is a very misunderstood product. For example, there is a picture in Tom Wheeler's American Guitars, page 54 (upper left corner), of a man with long rubber gloves dipping bodies into a tank at Fender in the late 1950's. The description incorrectly denotes the man is applying Fullerplast to the bodies. Most likely, this man is staining the Alder bodies yellow, a process used on Alder from 1956 and later before spraying the sunburst finish. (2) Thanks to VintageGuitarHQ

Fullerplast is a clear, sprayed chemically curing sealer, unaffected by solvents after it dries. It's invention is often given credit to Fuller O'Brien (but often though to be named after the city of Fullerton, the home of Fender) Whether either is the case, it is now manufactured and distributed by VanDee,

Fullerplast soaks into the wood and creates a seal that prevents following coats from soaking into the wood like a sponge. This means spraying the color coats is easier and the coats can be applied thinner (saving material, money and dry time). Even though alder is a "closed pore" wood, the first few coats of lacquer will soak in like a sponge without some type of sealer coat. Fullerplast dries in 15 minutes, and is paintable in one hour. It is also applied very thin.
Most experts agree the actual product Fullerplast actually started to be used around 1963 at Fender. Prior to that, Fender used other products as their sealer coat, but they did the same thing. The sealer allowed any color coat (be it sunburst or a custom color) to not soak into the wood. Since the sealer is essentially a clear inexpensive primer, less color would be needed (and color costs a lot more money than a cheap sealer).

Another misconception about Fullerplast is it's color. The sealers Fender used including Fullerplast were clear, not yellow. The yellow seen in the unpainted portions of a 1956 and later Alder body is actually a stain or dye applied under the sealer coat. This was used to simplify the sunbursting process. The Alder bodies are dipped in a vat of yellow stain/dye. Next the Alder body is sealed with a very thin coat of clear sealer (i.e. "Fullerplast"). After drying, the sunburst procedure is continued by spraying the translucent red (starting in 1958) and dark blackish-brown on the edges of the body, which completes the sunburst look. Finally a clear coat is sprayed over the entire body to seal the colors. By dipping the alder bodies in a yellow stain first, instead of spraying yellow lacquer, there is one less step of lacquer to mix, spray, and dry. *

By fall 1964, Fender changed the yellow making it more whitish and opaque to better hide flaws in the wood. This allowed Fender to use cheaper Alder with more cosmetic flaws. The more whitish yellow was then sprayed over the sealer coat, as were the red and brown of the Sunburst. That is why the red and yellow now looks much different on late 1964 and later Fenders. This new whitish-yellow bleeds through the translucent red making it more orangish. Note that even though Fender was now spraying the yellow after the Fullerplast, they still continued to stain or dye the bodies yellow before the sealer coat.

Current use of Polyester and UV coatings on Fender Guitars.
Probably cause for another article is the case of Ultra Violet cured paints and sealers now used by most production guitar manufacturers. UV allows a very thick and durable coating to be applied directly over bare wood without any need for pore filling. UV cures the paint to its hardest state within minutes, not allowing the finish to soak into the wood.

If you have ever chipped an Ibanez guitar, you know what I mean.
Essentially, beneath every vintage Fender is an Ibanez coating in-waiting for you.

Elecciones para mi Warmoth Black Strat:

Cápsulas: SSL1 Neck, SSL5 Bridge, SSL52RWRP Middle

Neck (Brazo): Gotoh Vintage Tuners, Headstock, Stratocaster, Total Vintage, Birdseye Maple, Fingerboard Wood, Birdseye Maple, Nut Width, 1 5/8", Back Contour, Standard thin, Fretwire, 6230, Tuner ream, Vintage Style (11/32"), Frets 21, Radius Straight, 7.25" (vintage), Inlays, Black Face Dots, Nut White Corian, Neck Finish, Vintage Tint Gloss, Scale, 25-1/2 in.

Body (Cuerpo): Model Standard Stratocaster®, Core Wood Alder, Bridge,Trem, Vintage 6-Hole Trem, Scale, 25-1/2 in., Wood Pieces, One Piece

Pickguard: .09" Black, Solid Gloss, 11 Holes

El cableado de mi Black Strat

agradecimientos por el trabajo a: contacto@isike.cl

Muerte de Les Paul ... RIP

Lester William Polsfuss mejor conocido como Les Paul ha fallecido a los 94 años de edad. Les Paul, cuyas innovaciones ayudaron a crecer la música pop y rock, nació en Waukesha, Wisconsin en 1915 y seguia tocando la guitarra aún a sus más de 90 años.

Les murió en White Plains, New York hoy 13 de agosto, debido a complicaciones de una grave neumonía.
El inventor de la guitarra que lleva su nombre, la Gibson Les Paul, ayudo mucho a la popularización de la música, especialmente del pop y el rock.

“El mundo ha perdido un verdadero innovador y excepcional ser humano hoy en día. No me puedo imaginar la vida sin Les Paul”, dice Henry Juszkiewicz, Presidente y CEO de Gibson Guitar. “Él camina en una habitación y poner una sonrisa en la cara de alguien. Su encanto fue extraordinario y sus técnicas inigualables en cualquier parte del mundo.”

Diseñó una guitarra de cuerpo semi-sólido, con un tablón en el centro donde estaban montados el puente, el mástil y las pastillas o micrófonos. De hecho, el prototipo, conocido como “El leño” por esa característica, se considera el primero de una guitarra de cuerpo sólido a partir de la guitarra española.

A finales de los años 1950, la guitarra gozaba de cierta popularidad, y era utilizada por bastantes músicos de rock ‘n’ roll. La introducción de las pastillas humbuckers de bobina doble diseñadas por Seth Lover en 1957 -en sustitución de las tradicionales single coil P-90- dio el empujón definitivo a las Les Paul, cuyas ventas y reputación se han mantenido a lo largo de casi cinco décadas.

Pedales gilmour ... Cornish SS-2 y Coloursound

estos pedales sirven para sonar como david Gilmour...

mi nueva "Black Strat"

mi nueva guitarra.

gracias Warmoth.

Ideas para un par de canciones ... Rockeras !

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Un metodo preciso para afinar una guitarra

A New Precise Guitar Tuning Method

¿Cómo afinar de manera perfecta una guitarra eléctrica?

Regla: el armónico se hace sonar primero.

1. Afina la cuerda D a una fuente conocida.
2. Hacer sonar el armónico del espacio 12 de la cuerda D, luego afina la cuerda G (o al 7 espacio) a ese armónico.
3. Hacer sonar el mismo armónico del espacio 12 de la cuerda D, luego afina la cuerda B (o al 3 espacio) a ese armónico.
4. Hacer sonar el armónico del espacio 12 de la cuerda G, afina la cuerda E aguda en el tercer espacio
5. Afina con el armónico del 12 espacio de la cuerda A con el 2 espacio de la cuerda G.
6. Afina en la cuerda E baja con el armónico del 5 espacio a la cuerda E aguda abierta.